September 14, 2010

fancy slaw

Folks, summer is officially over here in New York. The other day, I think I caught a cool breeze, an yesterday, I actually put on a sweater. It’s been a crazy hot summer here — the hottest on record, to be precise — and I’m a bit grateful for the cooler weather. It’s hit us a bit quicker than I’d hoped, but I’d been just aching for a fall wardrobe (oh, to put on a coat!) for weeks, now. But enough pussyfooting — onto the grub.

Growing up, I was never a fan of coleslaw, that cloying, industrial, bland slop served as a generic side. Fortunately, I had revelation when I discovered slaw need not include a mayonnaisey base, but just a squeeze of acidity to tenderize the raw vegetables, as is the case with this version. I consider it “fancy” because of the ingredients, namely the fennel (and not cabbage) base, and also because of its pretty presentation, its colors a striking contrast to your industrial-grade, cafeteria green-greige. This slaw also has the added bonus of including last week’s pickled onions. Layered at the bottom of the dish, they’ll really pop and surprise your guests when served. To quote one of my birthday dinner party guests, “Oooh, what’s that pink stuff?” He questioned me with trepidation, but upon tasting this, declared it a “favorite.”

Fennel slaw

Adapted from Sunday Suppers.

To make ahead of time, toss fennel and mint with lemon juice. Layer in serving bowl, pickled onions on bottom, then raisins, fennel mixture, and top with hazelnuts. Toss just before serving. Otherwise, pickled onions will bleed.

  • 1/4 cup golden raisins
  • 1/2 cup pickled red onions (see recipe here)
  • 2 bulbs fennel, sliced as thin as possible
  • 1/4 cup coarsely chopped mint
  • 1/4 cup toasted hazelnuts
  • juice of a lemon
  • olive oil (optional)
  • salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

Place raisins in a small bowl and cover with water. Set aside to let soften, about 15-20 minutes.

In a large serving bowl, layer pickled onions, raisins, fennel, mint, and hazelnuts. Just before serving, dress with lemon (and a splash of olive oil, if desired), salt, and pepper. Toss and serve immediately.

Serves 6-8.